Category Archives: coast

On The Walk of the Gods

High up, very high up in the hills overlooking the Amalfi Coast is a walk (let’s say vertiginous hike) which threads along the cliffs, past the ghosts of farmhouses and terraces overgrown with grapevines — the grapes warm and sweet if you are tempted — from Praiano to Positano. The walk can take anywhere from 3 to 5 hours, depending on your pace and fitness, or you can join the path in other mountain towns like Apergo, where you can do a loop in about 2 hours (good if you want to get back to your car without having to take a cab or the bus!). That’s the option we took. We were following famous footsteps:

“Is this the view that from on high along the Path of the Gods, opens to our sight: it is the picture of the great loop of the Amalfi coastline that looks towards the west, towards the Island of Capri, that precipitous coast, steamy, hot, with the crystalline mountains where the gods of today are forsaken and you find a lost self again, Mediterranean, before you.” D. H. Lawrence

As Lawrence intimated, it can get hot up there, so best to wear a hat and sunglasses, slather yourself with high factor sunscreen, bring lots of water (which you can refill from fresh water taps along the way), and opt to do the walk outside of the broiling months of July and August (we did it in September, which was perfect — sunny with a touch of cool breeze wafting up from the coast far, far, far, far below).

It was marvellous.

 

 

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Escape to Capri

Am just back from a wonderful week down on the Amalfi Coast, with jaunts to Capri, Pompeii and Naples with my lovely Canadian friends Craig and JP. Landing in Naples, I dashed across town on the airport bus to the port (good value) where I met up with them, and we hopped straight onto the ferry to the island of Capri. The sky was blue, the sun was warm, and, it being September, the holiday crowds had thinned. They had booked us a fantastic Air BnB villa in nestled against the hills, with a fantastic view of the town. Once the day trippers caught the last ferry back to Naples at 7pm, the alleyways and town square quietened down, and we enjoyed an evening walk past the tempting shops until the delicious smells wafting from the E’Divino Restaurant beckoned us through their door.

The next day we got up early to explore the island, fortified by frequent stops for frothy cappucinos and lemon granita.

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Around St. John’s, Newfoundland

My last couple of days in Newfoundland were spent in and around the capital St. John’s. And by “capital” you’re thinking concrete skyscrapers, and modernistic tower blocks, you’re in the wrong city. In St. John’s the key word is “colour”.

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One of my favourite parts of St. John’s is the fishing village of Quidi Vidi which hugs the harbourfront.

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We stopped by the excellent Mallard Cottage restaurant in Quidi Vidi for dinner one night. The restaurant is tucked into a tiny cottage overlooking the harbour. One of the best meals I had in Newfoundland.

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The next day I had a good wander around the city, enjoying the relaxed vibe and the gorgeous weather.

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Queenie’s husband Wizard Rob and I headed south one day to get me on a whale boat. We stopped by pretty Petty Harbour on our way.

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Then down to Bay Bulls to catch the whale watching boat at Gatherall’s. We were on the look out for hump whales and puffins.

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Gatherall’s: http://www.gatheralls.com

Mallard Cottage: http://www.mallardcottage.ca